RECOVERY OF SURFACE WAVES BY THE MEASUREMENTS OF PRESSURE VARIATIONS AT THE SEABED
Abstract
We study the possibility of recovering the parameters of wind waves by the measurements of the bottom pressure sensor. In the framework of a weakly-dispersive fully nonlinear theory of long waves (so-called Zheleznyak-Pelinovsky model) and the assumption of a wave moving at a constant speed, we have derived an explicit approximate formula for the one-point relation between the pressure variation and water surface displacement. It includes nonlinear and dispersive corrections to the hydrostatic equation obtained from the nonlinear theory of shallow water. We have performed quantitative calculations of recovery parameters of the wave according to the measurements of the bottom sensor. It is noted that for the conditions of the Sea of Okhotsk non-hydrostatic corrections may reach 50%.
About the Authors
K. . Kuznetsov
R.E. Alekseev Nizhny Novgorod State Technical University
Russian Federation
Russian Federation
E. . Pelinovsky
R.E. Alekseev Nizhny Novgorod State Technical University
Russian Federation
Russian Federation
A. . Kurkin
R.E. Alekseev Nizhny Novgorod State Technical University
Russian Federation
Russian Federation
A. . Zaytsev
Special Research Bureau for Automation of Marine Research, Far Eastern Branch, Russian Academy of Sciences
Russian Federation
Russian Federation
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